Monthly Archives: October 2025
The Lid
Michael Shannon
It’s inauguration day January 20th 1961. There is eight inches of new snow on the ground. It is freezing yet over a million people had gathered on the mall as witnesses. Two vastly important things happened on the marble steps of the Capitol building in Washington DC. Neither one was the swearing in of a new president. In a photograph of Supreme Court Justice Earl Warren reading the oath of office to the new chief executive who is not wearing a hat, his wife Jaqueline stands behind Warren absolutely rocking her Halston designed pillbox hat. The hew President John F. Kennedy was set to become the first US leader born in the 20th century, the first Catholic commander-in-chief and the first president whose inaugural speech was beamed across crackly television screens in color.
Everything that happened on January 20, 1961, was stage-managed to tell America that a new age was dawning. “Ask not what your country can do for you – ask what you can do for your country,” he implored a nation in need of reassurance and leadership at the height of the Cold War.
Perhaps the saddest thing about this day of hope was that it was the death knell of hats. Kennedy didn’t like hats and wouldn’t wear one unless he had to. He had great hair which is essential in the political game. Why cover it up?

In one fell swoop two centuries of hats were swept away. After 1961 there were still great hats to be seen but only on rare and special occasions. In the movies, at fashion shows and at the Kentucky Derby where they aped the far more famous and, dare I say more stylish British.

Audrey Hepburn, “My Fair Lady.”
We all know the iconic mega-feathered hats of the Edwardian era. The Edwardians were particularly enamored with plumage, but unlike their be-feathered predecessors, the Victorians and the Georgians, many a fine species of bird was taken to the brink of extinction by the incredible demand for ladies be-feathered hats.
Throughout history, hats have played a big role in indicating one’s status. For the Edwardians, they took this to a new level, and often added entire birds to their heads, and sometimes these birds were fantastical creations cobbled together from several varying bird parts!

Popular plumage for hats extended beyond ostrich, to include heron, peacock, egret, osprey, bird of paradise, pheasant…even vulture. The more “common” feathers for adornment were garden fowl, pigeon, turkey, goose, and rooster. These feathers were made into plumes, pompoms, aigrettes, wings, pads, bands, breasts, and quills, and not by marchandes, milliners, and craftsmen in quaint little shops, oh no, by massive factories employing thousands of women and children, and dealing in hundreds of thousands of feathers per day. In 1900, in North America, the millinery industry employed 83,000 people!

Camille Clifford American actress



Evelyn Nesbit, the Girl in the Velvet Swing. Lillian Russell the Jersey Lily. Lily Elsie in the Merry Widow
In a world of sweat stained baseball caps and shapeless, floppy hiking hats sold at every seaside gift shop and those faux cowboy hats made for the bar and ATV wrangling, only Jazz musicians have kept the banner of the chapeau flying. No one could rock a Pork Pie like Lester Young, the greatest tenor sax player who ever lived if I do say so myself.
L to R Thelonius Monk and Lester Williams “The Prez,” nicknamed by Billie Holiday herself.


Rockers too have had their iconic hats. Some such as Leon Russels “Mad Hatter” lid was so famous that just the sight of it identified the person. Tom Petty’s John Bull Topper and Stevie Ray Vaughns Texas style Plateau hat could be spotted a mile away. All three somehow lent a special air to the legendary musicians.



Cowboys are well known for their hats. Every area of the country seems to have a dedicated style today but in the beginning it was just something to cover the head. Bowlers, broken down military hats the cheap felt hats that came out of the civil war especially from the Confederates. Since big time ranching essentially started in Texas-New Mexico those boys set the style. They were dirt poor, likely almost no education but they could fork a horse and they showed off a certain style that somehow puts modern cowboys riding their ATV’s and wearing custom shirts with patches that make them look like they came out of nascar to shame.




Cowboys from the old original days. Black, Brown and white as it used to be. 1870 to 1900. PD
The women too wore hats, just like the men though with perhaps a little more style.




Clockwise from upper left: The Sweetheart of the rodeo, my great-grandmother Marianna Cayce, a Mexican Charraria from Jalisco, Mexico and one of the girls from the old Huasna rancho, California. Look up the Charrarias, they ride horse handling events and do it all sidesaddle. My grandmother was the first woman to ride astride in the Santa Barbara Fiest parade in 1925. She loved the scandal.
I have to say that some of the movie cowpokes sported great hats too though theirs were chosen by set dressers to match their features, like an artist might paint them but the good ones are worth remembering.




From upper left clockwise: Henry Fonda, Tom Selleck, Jeff Bridges with Hailey Stanfield and from the greatest western ever made, “Monte Walsh.” Lee Marvin.
Every good gangster must wear an iconic hat. Fedoras, snap brims, skimmers, newsboys, they wore ’em all doncha see? Before gangsters dressed in tracksuits and gold chains by the dozen, revealing their status as potential killers there was a day when the point was to look like an honest businessman. In suits and fedoras they strolled the Big Apple in neighborhoods such as “Hell’s Kitchen, “Alphabet City” and the Bowery. Gangsters of every stripe roamed the lower east side, Little Italy and The Five Points, The Tenderloin and Harlem. The Dead Rabbits, The Forty Thieves, The Whyos, The Purple Gang and Murder Inc. roamed their districts with evil intent. With a Snap Brim or Straw Boater, Chewing on a ‘seegar’ they dressed to the Nines to send a message.


“Lucky” Luciano and “Bugs Moran” Cold dead eyes.
Moviemakers have a fascination with gangsters. Their portrayal is designed to send shivers up and down the spines of viewers who will watch them and ogle their antics on the big screen in a state of vicarious joy.

The Godfather, Little Caesar, Public Enemy and Scarface.
The workingman typically sported a cap unlike the “Swells” and their Homburgs and hardboiled Derbys winding down through the financial district and sporting a rolled umbrella as a mark of their status. Known by various names in the western world, Flat Caps, Newsboys, Scally Cap and Baker Boy Cap they were once worn by tradesmen of every kind. Recently they have seen a modest rebirth with the hipster Scally Cap and the Baker Boy Paddy Cap from Ireland.

The Morning Telegraph was a New York City broadsheet newspaper owned by Moe Annenberg’s Cecelia Corporation. Bat Masterson frontier marshall was its sportswriter. It ceased publication in 1972. Newsboys photo circa 1897.


This a comparison of the Baker Boy Cap, the real on the left and the movie on the right. Henry Fowler real, Cillian Murphy not real.
Gang members frequently wore tailored clothing, which was not uncommon for gangs of the time. Bosses wore silk scarves and starched collars with metal tie buttons. Their distinctive dress was easily recognizable by city inhabitants, police, and rival gang members. The wives, girlfriends, and mistresses of the gang members were known for wearing lavish clothing. Pearls, silks, and colorful scarves were commonplace on their women. The gang in England, operated from the 1880s until the 1920s. The group consisted largely of young criminals from lower- to working-class backgrounds. They engaged in murder, robbery, violence, racketeering, illegal bookmaking, and control of gambling. Members wore signature outfits that typically included tailored jackets, lapelled overcoats, buttoned waistcoats, silk scarves, bell-bottom trousers, leather boots, and flat caps. The so-called Peaky Blinders, which contrary to what you might see on television did not have razor blades sewn into their caps because Gillette didn’t begin making the old single edge razor blade until 1908. They instead gained their name from the way they wore them with the cap tilted so that the peak covered one eye.

The real deal. Peaky Blinders criminal records about 1904. Birmingham, England.
The armed forces in America have little choice in what they wear. Officers and enlisted men have gone to great lengths to build in some individual style when they can. In WWII Army Air Corps officer pilots wore their field grade visor hats in the cockpit. Because they wore head phones to communicate the strap on the phones bent down the crown stiffener so that the normally flat top was “crushed” on the sides. The hat became so cool that all officers not just fliers sported them. Flyers looked down on these posers with a degree of disdain as they should.


The real deal. B-17 pilot Colonel Jimmy Stewart and Major Clark Gable, air gunner. Both flew multiple missions over Germany.
Enlisted sailors and soldiers, though they didn’t wear gold braid, nevertheless found ways to twist, fold and crimp their headgear too. If you have complained about those darn kids wearing their ball caps all crazy, have at look at your great-grandfathers style.


Tuskegee 332nd fighter group ground crew in Italy WWII. Bobby Hall stylin’ his Dixie, US Navy
In Great Britain they run the Epsom Derby, pronounced Darby, is run in June of each year. The Stakes, more commonly known as the Derby and sometimes referred to as the Epsom Derby, is a Group 1 flat horse race in England open to three-year-old colts and fillies. It’s a major event in on British sporting calendar. The queens and kings have been running their horses in this race since 1661 and annually since 1740. Like other elite horse races, the Epsom Derby has grown into a multiday festival, featuring musical acts and events in addition to the race itself. The Oaks is also run during the Derby festival, held on the Friday before the Saturday running of the Derby. Derby Day is more formal than most contemporary sporting events: Epsom Downs maintains a dress code for male spectators in certain sections of the stands, and women often attend the event wearing extravagant hats. Hats are literally the most important reason for showing up for some. Troops of photographers flit to and fro capturing images of important people and their hats.




Queen to be, The real Queen, a Duchess and an the American Queen.
We’ve all seen the distintive Cloche hat which was popular in the 20’s and 30’s I always thought the were strange looking things. aort of beanie-like, blah and bland. When I was looking for examples I ran across a colorized video of a Parisian woman sitting outside a bistro wearing one and it completely changed my perception. The color and movement explained it all.



Janet Gaynor, American actress traveling to New York on the Queen Mary in 1929 and a sophisticated Parisienne taking tea on the banks of the Seine in 1927. Some people can make anything look good.
I’m sad to see the end of the Pork Pie, the Topper, the Skimmer, the derby, the merry widow and the little straw bonnet worn by Natty Bumpo’s sweetheart Cora Munro in the Last of the Mohicans,

Misstress Cora Munro.
My brothers and I though, are making an attempt to jump start the fine old art of hat wearing. Maybe it will work.

Good luck to us I say.
Cover Photo: My grandmother Annie Gray Shannon and Hattie Tyler, 1900
Michael Shannon is a writer and sure to take some abuse from his brothers for this.
The Hired Girl
Michael Shannon
She was only ever referred to as the hired girl. She worked for my Great Uncle Patrick Moore and his wife Sarah. She wasn’t a live in for her parents had a home just down the hill from the Big House called Grand View, that huge confection of a house built in the 1889 by My grandmother’s maternal uncle, the very successful Irish immigrant who had risen from a sheep farmer in Guadalupe to become one of the richest and most influential men in what were still known as the “Cow Counties.”

Grandview 1896. Annie Gray Shannon is the little girl in white up on the balcony.
The Moores could never have imagined how their life would turn out. They immigrated to the United States in 1847 from Cavan town in county Cavan where Patrick’s family raised pigs. Moderately prosperous they lived in what is known as the Irish Lakes District because it contains 365 named lakes. County Cavan is also the source of the river Shannon. According to legend, the Shannon is named after Sionnan, who was the granddaughter of Manannán mac Lir, the god of the sea. She came to this spot to eat the forbidden fruit of the Tree of Knowledge, which was planted by the druids. As she began to eat it, the waters of the pool sprang up and overwhelmed her. She was drawn down into the pool and its water began to flow over the land, forming the River Shannon.
Patrick himself had no desire to spend his life slopping pigs in that good Irish mud so he prevailed upon his father Michael to buy him a ticket on an immigrant steamer. He arrived at Castle Gardens New York in April 1847 aboard the SS John Ravenal out of Liverpool, he was 15 and he intended to stay. Like most immigrants he already knew someone who could show him the ropes so to speak. Chain immigration has always been the way. Over the next decade he would return the favor and bring his father Michael and his three sisters, Mary, Bessie and Catherine to this country.
They moved across the country. He lived Sandusky Ohio and in 1860, moved to the Sacramento area of California. Somewhere along the way he learned to read and write and became a citizen.

Patrick Moore. Family photo
He and Sarah were married in 1871 but old census reports indicate they were living in the same house for a few years before that. Perhaps you can imagine the rest, or not. Everyones life has been self censored.
In 1877 they were living near Salinas during the great drought of the 1870’s. He ran horses, cattle and herds of sheep and his stock was in great distress because of little feed and almost no water. He wrote to his old friend Patrick Donovan who was an Arroyo Grande pioneer asking if he had feed to sell. Pat Donovan told him that he had leased lands in the Oso Flaco area and that Moore should drive his herds south. When Pat Moore asked what would be the cost Donovan said it would be nothing as they were friends and Patrick Moore was a friend in need. Pat Moore never forgot this act of kindness. “Every cent I now have ” he would often say, “I owe to the friendly act of my friend, Pat Donovan. He never took a cent in pay for the feed he gave my starving livestock.” Pat Moore spent the rest of his life paying that kindness forward.
The entire family relocated to Guadalupe in 1877 where he farmed and ranched. Like many Irish immigrants he began buying land, Something no Irishman could do in the home country. For some like Pat Moore it was an obsession.
By 1891 he owned vast tracts of land. Much of the old Santa Manuela Rancho, Parts of the Bolsa de Chamisal, bottom land in the Arroyo Grande valley, three stone quarries and had become an informal banker, lending money to others. Some of his land in the hills of Santa Barbara county and in the flats east of Santa Maria produced the first oil in the area.
Fortunate had graced his efforts and in 1890 he began building the great house known as Grandview. It overlooked the little town of Arroyo Grande and the valley for which it was named. Pat was active in politics and in 1892 was elected supervisor of the fifth district of San Luis Obispo county, the so-called “Bloody Fifth.” It’s reputation was well earned. Saloon brawls, the little town had many more than a dozen saloons and there were land disputes which occasioned cold blooded murder and a non-judicial lynching. The regular clearing out of undesirables such as vagrants and the pesky Celestials who lived in the Oceano area. People then were no better than we are now.
In 1893 a singular event in their lives changed their lives. My eight year old grandmother came to live with the Moores in the big house. From a prominent Santa Maria family, her mother was a niece of Sarah Moore. Annie Gray left her family to be raised by the Moores who were childless. They promised to provide her with a first class university education and deed her a ranch when the Moores passed on. It was another selfless act of kindness by two Irish immigrant families. My great-grandparents to loan a child and another family to cherish her.
The Moores had also taken in a pair of sisters who had been orphaned. The inscription on Elizabeth Tyler’s headstone reads: “Remember friends as you pass by. As you are now, once was I. As I am now so you must be. Prepare yourselves to follow me.” Mrs. Tyler and her husband died of Smallpox in 1875. She is said to have been the first person to be laid to rest in the burial grounds of the old Guadalupe Catholic cemetery. Her two girls, Mame and Hattie would grow up with my grandmother in the Moore house. Just down the hill in the little area of small farms owned by some of the most prominent citizens raised boys and girls of the same age. The big ranching families all had houses in town because they were so far from schools and shopping that they sometimes lived in their townhouses away from the ranches.
Up at the house in the days long before radio, television and the like, entertainment for kids was provided by parties and family get togethers which were a constant occurence. My grandmothers little autograph book which her guests signed contains the names of kids from families like the Phoenix kids, the Harloes, Dixons, Lierely, Jack Shannon, my future grandfather, the Rice girls, the Griebs, Conrows and many others. Children were more than welcome at Grandview anytime and for any reason.
The gift of an education was not reserved for just my grandmother but was settled on several young women who spent time in that house. Girls attended the San Jose Normal school, Santa Barbara College and Cal, all paid for by Pat Moore.
So, a big house full of kids and adults, hence the hired girl. Her name was Clara.*

Annie Gray, my grandmother and the hired girl Clara. Rear. Mary Maguire and the Tyler sisters. 1893. family photo
Clara was a lively redheaded Irish girl six years older than my grandmother when she came to live with the Moore’s. Her parents had come from Ireland in 1879 and settled in Arroyo Grande. They lived just down the hill from Grandview. Her father farmed a small tract of land in the lower valley. He had come south working for the Southern Pacific railroad.
Clara began working for the Moore’s when she was fourteen. A house nearly ten thousand square feet took some work to keep up. The house had hardwood floors covered with rugs and you can bet that guests and families did not remove their high button shoes to come inside. The streets of the town were still years from being paved and the road out to the house was corduroy which was just basically logs covered with dirt. The Moores might have had a big house and dressed well but they still had horses in the barn, pigs in the sty and dogs in the yard.
Visitors from out of town like San Luis Obispo or Guadalupe came by train which ran twice a day. Come for dinner you had to spend the night. Pat and Sarah loved guests in their home and weekends especially the house would be full.
Clara must have spent many hours pushing that brand new invention, the carpet sweeper** and scrubbing floors.Thankfully for her most of the laundry was sent out to the Chinese laundry in Oceano so at least she was relieved of that chore. Outside duties were delegated to the hired man Clarence Seamen who lived upstairs in the horse barn. The house was set on an entire section of ranch land and was a busy place.
My grandmother grew up in that big house, leaving for university at Berkeley in 1904. She married my grandfather Jack Shannon in 1908 and had two boys. The family ran their dairy on the promised ranch, and retired in 1954. My grandfather passed away in November of 1976 and my grandmother Annie in April 1977.
Readers of stories about my family will know that she was a right proper lady. She was a turn of the century girl raised by two wealthy families. She was a churchgoer of the first order and anything improper was neither said nor done…or ever mentioned.

Annie Gray 1906. University of California Berkeley. Yearbook photo.***
On a visit home in 1977 I went out to the ranch house where she still lived and found her, always a small women, much diminished in stature sitting on her pink rose patterned couch where she spent her last days. She was lost to me. She dwelt in some foggy place where I could never go and barely recognized who I was. Cold and wrapped in a house coat and a blanket across her knees she sat in a ray of sunlight and took my hand when I sat down with her. The little hand I had touched all my life, the hand that had stroked the blonde curls of her first grandchild that I was. Any conversation was mostly mine offering questions that were things long past that she might recall. She offered snippets of stories, of the family.
I found a small autograph book in a box stored on the shelf below the folded towels in the guest bathroom along with stacks of old photos. The cover, a polished wooden piece of lovely mahogany with the crest of Queen Liliokulani**** of the kingdom of Hawai’i and filled with a decade of sentiments by kids who attended birthday parties, graduations or just any occasion to get together in the big house. Many names familiar to me for we lived in a small town where for decades families never left. I went to school with children whose grandparents had signed her book.
She didn’t have much to say. “She played bridge with that girl, or that was her best friend, that was my sister Sadie, he was a nice boy,” things like that. In a beautiful copperplate script there was a note that said “Think of me long, think of me ever? Think of the fun we’ve had together.” Your Friend Clara J. Arroyo Grande February 3rd, 1899. It was my grandmothers thirteenth birthday.
When I asked who Clara was because I had never heard it before she replied, “Oh that was the hired girl, she got knocked up by the hired man.”
Well now! Here was a voice from long ago that sent the family stories tumbling. Neither my father nor uncle ever heard of Clara. My grandmother even mentioning the word sin out loud was a surprise. Not exactly a peccadillo, but something very serious. She said “Knocked Up.” Did people in 1900 even use vulgar phrases like that? Yes they did, in fact you might be surprised that people were not much different then, than now.
One sentence is all, just one. This is what I had. A mention by a very old woman, a single inscription in an autograph book and Clara’s name written on the back of an old, old photograph. “Knocked Up” she had to be sent away. She married a Mexican it was said, not entirely a full throated congratulation for the poor girl. Clara was just six years older than my grandmother and a friend, judging from the inscriptions she left in Annies autograph books. She got herself “Knocked Up” as the old saying goes and had to be sent away. “At least she had enough sense not to marry the hired hand who made the baby.” My grandmother whispered, “But she did marry a Mexican.” The hired hand? He was sent packing. When she talked of these things eighty long years had passed yet to her they were as real as yesterday. Isn’t that time travel? And indeed Clara never had another child which would lead one to believe the outcome of the pregnancy was not good. Perhaps at twenty she should have known better, but she was a “lively” girl.
I thought, sent away which I think implies not just home but away somewhere else. San Luis Obispo and Santa Maria had lively Red Light districts where there would likely have been midwives employed for that very reason. Or was she sent by train to San Francisco and how did the Moore’s know where to send her. Abortion? Miscarriage, no one alive today knows just that she never had children. Of course the verdict of the time wold have been that she was “Ruined.”
She did marry a “Mexican” though in California that didn’t really mean all that much since it was once a Mexican province and like it or not many Californians are descendants of Mexican people and proud of it as they should be.
Clara married just two years later and stayed married for 61 years to the same man. Her family stayed in the San Luis county area and her sister even has a local valley street named after her.
Clara seems to have had a good life and her secret has remained one for well over a century but it’s a story that delights the discoverer and covers much of the history of what we might call real people don’t you think?
A secret buried for 76 years and never to be revealed as if somehow my grandmother was shamed by it. We have learned that the human does not change. Words yes, the world around us yes, but us, not so much.
*Though Clara had no living children, her husbands family has descendants living nearby so family and married name shall remain private.
**Invented in 1876, the carpet sweeper reduced the workload on housekeepers. Rugs had to be taken out and beaten at regular intervals. It was the latest mechanical marvel and a boon the housekeepers everywhere.
***We still have that skirt packed away in a cedar lined trunk.
****Hawaii was still a kingdom at the time and how or why she came into possession of the little book is a mystery.
Michael Shannon is a writer and found his own family to be very fertile ground. He writes so his own children might know something of that family.