The Twelve Hour Tour.

Michael Shannon

Chapter 24,

Six Months in Billings.

They rolled the old Hog down the eastern palisades of the Rocky Mountains and down onto the high western prairies of central Montana, The ancestral home of the Lakota, Shoshone, Nez Perce, Blackfeet, Flathead, and Crow who had roamed horseback across the undulating prairies of Montana, Wyoming and the Dakotas for more than three centuries.

The difference was stark. The foothills of the Rockies, bathed in the late summer heat with Billings nestled in the fertile valley of the Yellowstone river and framed on three sides by scenic mountain ranges, Billings is a blend of plains and mountain geographies. The environment is rugged and wild just beyond the city with the spectacular Rimrock standing like stone fence on the north and east.

Fed by numerous tributaries, the Yellowstone River flows in a northeasterly direction through the Yellowstone valley. The valley measures from a few yards to twelve miles in width. Valley soils are deep, well-drained loams and silty clays. Sandstone cliffs, from 300 to 500 feet high, form a landmark border known as the “Rimrocks” to the north and east of the city. Above the Rimrocks, the land is primarily rolling hills with shallow to moderately deep soils of sandy and clay loams. South of Billings, the terrain is characterized by rolling steep hills with high, flat tablelands.

They’d left Arroyo Grande in September when it was still nice California weather but they weren’t prepared for the weather on the great plains. They hit a blizzard and Bruce and Eileen wee very concerned about wether they could get through. Bruce couldn’t see where the road was and so he had Bob walking ahead on the muddy snow covered road to guide the car. It was very cold. The Nash had only a little box heater under the dash board that ran on hot water from the radiator. Little Patsy sat on her mothers lap bundled in blankets trying to keep warm. They finally found an Auto Court and decided to wait it out. There is an old saying in Montana that if you don’t like the weather just wait a few minutes and it will change.

Bruce paid for the room and and sloshed his way to the door and used the key to open the door. Patsy was wearing a little dress and a pair of Maryjanes so Bob, who was already wet and muddy carried his sister in. Bruce had to help Eileen walk, the heels she always wore didn’t help much in the slush. They realized that the were completely Californian in their experience and that this might just be a completely new amd different way to live..

Eileen was born at a ranch in Anaheim. Her family were pioneers there and the Polhemus Ranch was partly on the site of todays Disneyland. Called the Miramonte, the ranch had wonderful views of the mountains to the east, a pretty rare sight today. Bruce grew up in Arroyo Grande so neither of them had any experience in the snow.

All the little room had for heat was a little electic hot plate so Eileen put on a pot and boiled water so the steam would send the temperature and humidity up. Bundled in their clothes and blankets they spent a miserable night huddled together on the bed, Mister Beans too.

As the old saying goes just wait a bit and sure as little green apples they awoke to clear skies and a warm breeze out of the east. It had been a freakish introduction to the vagaries of early Montana winter weather. Before instant communication, long distance travel in the west always had a hint of the disaster hanging about and they felt lucky that they had escaped from a blizzard that might easily have killed them.

It was nice when they finally rolled into Billings. After asking for directions they drove up 31st street to an apartment building on the tree lined and shaded street. Checking in with the landlady they rented an apartment in the otherwise vacant building. Eight rooms and they were the only residents which suited them just fine.*

Patsy standing on the stoop still wearing her short skirt and Maryjanes. Late September 1938.

They had a day or two to settle in and get organized before Bruce had to go to work. The apartment had two little kitchen chairs and a round table which proudly showed the scars, scrapes and dents of a long useful life. They also inherited an old crippled three legged dresser with a sort of peg leg nailed to the side with a folded matchbook strategically positioned to keep it level most of the time. There was a stand alone wardrobe for clothes which stood alongside an old iron framed double bed painted white. The mattress had seen some hard use and would have to go which presented no problem for them. It was just part of the deal when you lived in temporary houses and they were used to that sort of thing. The rent was only eight dollars a month so at least it wasn’t going to break the bank.

Grandma brought a box of dishes and some cooking utensils with her and some folded sheets and blankets. A night or two on the floor presented no problem. Billings was a nice little town and with a little nosing around she would find what ever she needed.

My aunt who had just turned five had the run of the place because her mother thought it was perfectly safe with no other residents. People were a little more casual with their kids then and paid less attention to the occasional bumps, scrapes and bruises. Years of itinerant life had taught them the important thing was to teach children how to look out for themselves.

Billings had a population which hovered around 20,00 souls in 1938 and qualified as Montana’s 3rd largest city behind Butte and Great Falls. The town was slowly climbing out of the depression with the introduction of some light industry, particularly the new sugar beet factory and the local refinery.

One of the most brutal labor intensive crops grown at the time, sugar beets used a legion of itinerant laborers who did almost all of the planting, weeding and production by hand. The infamous “Cortito” or short handled hoe was prominent in the fields. Known by Mexican laborers as the “Brazo de Diablo,” or the devils arm, it was the only weeding tool in use at the time.** It would be forty years before it was phased out of existence.

Thinning sugar beets in the Yellowstone valley, Treasure County Montana near Billings Montana 1939

There were around twenty refineries in Montana at the time though most people wouldn’t likely think of the state as a major oil producer. Yale Oil ran a refinery right outside Billings and received crude from the wells which had been drilled in the southeastern part of the state.

Signal landmen had contracted for some leases near the small town of Broadview which was about forty miles northwest of Billings and Bruce and his crew were sent to set up and drill a wildcat. The region is in the northern portion of the Crazy Horse Mountain Basin/Bull Mountain Basin region, which was surveyed for oil potential during that the thirties. Montana was well known for its light crude which was a high quality product and when refined made a very good quality gasoline. Cars in the late thirties were far more sophisticated than they had been twenty years before. V8 motors needed a higher grade of gasoline than the old four banger Model T’s. Signal was advertising its Purepull gasoline which had lead added and known as Tetrathyl which ran smoother in the new and modern engines.***

With a long history of drilling and production Signal geologists believed that a wildcat might be worth a try and Mosher agreed to sent my grandfather and his crew up to Montana to have a go on the chance that a new field could be brought in.

Walt and Ray would be flying in to Billings soon so setting up the household was going to be done in a hurry.

Chapter 25

How its done.

*North 31st street is still there. Built in 1910 a room can be rented for just 875 a month. Eight rooms, four baths, one with a tub. when the Halls lived there. It now has two apartments with full baths and is estimated to be around four hundred thousand if it was on the market. It’s walking distance to McKinley Elementary school where Patsy went to the first grade while they lived there. It’s one of the few old survivors left in downtown Billings.

**Kaz Ikeda who volunteered to go north to Idaho to work the beets in 1944, said, “Anything to get out of the concentration camp at Poston, Arizona,” Kaz told me it was the most brutal work he ever did and this from a farm boy who grew up in the fields of Arroyo Grande, California. He always said,”The joke was on me.”

***Ethyl gasoline, introduced in 1923, was a leaded fuel additive developed by General Motors and Standard Oil to eliminate engine knock and increase efficiency, using tetraethyl lead. Despite early cases of severe lead poisoning among workers, the product was marketed heavily as “Ethyl” to hide its lead content. It dominated the market for decades before being phased out starting in the 1970s due to extreme environmental and public health risks.

Michael Shannon comes from an oil field family. Bruce and Eileen Hall were his mothers parents.

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The Hogger

CHAPTER ONE

By Michael Shannon

Hogger is a slang term for a locomotive engineer. Steam locomotives were referred to as “Hogs” in the early days of railroading.

My grandparents grew up when trains were the most modern form of transportation. When they were children growing up in Arroyo Grande, the steam train dominated the movement of people and goods throughout California’s Cow Counties. The big Railroad, the Southern Pacific hadn’t arrived yet, there was a promise it would but it took years for the local movers and shakers to pony up the bribes and free land that the Big Four demanded. No, the railroad here was the little narrow gauge Pacific Coast. Quite a bit smaller than the big train, it had served the area since 1868. It ran essentially from nowhere to nowhere. It huffed and puffed its little self-confident way to and fro making no apologies to anyone.

Arroyo Grande station and warehouse 1898. Historic Society.

My grandmother Annie rode it down to Santa Maria to go to High School. The high school in Arroyo Grande wasn’t accredited for those that were planning on going to Cal Berkeley. She and her friends hopped aboard, the train would actually pick you up in front of your house, to take trips up to San Luis Obispo to shop for the latest spring frocks and hats.

Nearly all the goods in the stores that marched along Branch street had to have their merchandise brought down from San Francisco by steam or sail and then shipped by rail to their destinations. The largest building in town was the PC warehouse on upper Branch Street.

Pacific Coast Railway Bridge Arroyo Grande, Ca, 1914. County Historical Society.

When my grandparent were kids the only bridges across Arroyo Grande creek were the railroad bridge and Newt Short’s swinging bridge which was only good for pedestrians. The RR bridge handled most of the walking public and all the wagons crossing the creek. It also served as an impromptu gallows at least once.

If you lived in town to train whistle and the rumble of the cars was a daily fact. My grandfather lived with the sound of that little train for almost fifty years. It’s no wonder it was planted in his thoughts.

Dad Shannon’s little house on the dairy. Family Photo

Christmas eve 1953 the family jumped in the green Buick sedan for the trip to my grandparents house where we always spent Christmas eve. It’s impossible to recall the excitment little kids feel when you are grown. Anticipation can cause you to almost wet your pants, your hair to stand on end and your head spin. The cars in those days had fabric upholstery which had a singular odor mixed with cigarette smoke and the ever present dirt and dust that farm families live with. Once in a while the car got washed but it was a fruitless exercise for my mother. Its pea soup color was always dusty in summer and muddy in winter. No matter how it looked it might as well been a golden chariot on Christmas eve with three little boys bouncing around on the seats in a collective fit of anticipation. Kids didn’t get many presents in those days. One special thing and the rest was basically utility. Shirts made by my mother probably, always socks from bachelor uncle Jack who didn’t have a clue. I got socks from him every Christmas for nearly fifty years. We really weren’t concerned about quantity. We had heard stories about Christmas past when my father got a pair of socks knitted by my aunt Sadie and a fresh Orange. He told me he was glad to get them too, especially the Orange, a pretty rare thing for those days. That was in 1920 when he was eight and he still operated on that principle in the fifties. Things were not particularly important to him. He felt that you should be grateful for what you got and say thank you because no matter what it was it was important to the one who gave it to you. The thing had no particular value, it was the love that counted.

When you know you will only receive one gift, why, it takes on a much greater importance. It was a good lesson.

We drove into town and then south on the old highway and turned off on El Campo Road where my grandparents lived on their ranch. The little red house with the white trim was down in a place I always thought of as the hole. The big bank of the highway and the old Nipomo road on the other side boxed it in and you entered downhill on the gravel driveway. Built n 1924 by my great-grandfather it was a simple board and batt sided, two bedroom with a door at each end. The backdoor led into a screen porch where grandmas pie safe stood, green with screen in the doors that looked like lace. Full of jelly jars with room for a cooling pie. There was a bench for changing shoes and some hooks screwed to the wall to hang jackets and hats on. In 1953 every man still wore one. Open the inside door and you were in the kitchen. Very simple it was. Next the dining kitchen table area and then through to the living room. Behind that was the front door enclosed in a little add on porch. This door was nearly useless because no one was ever likely to use it. Only itinerant drummers like the Fuller Brush man or his like. The custom in the country is to always use the back door. There is a familiarity and friendship involved in that like you might almost be a member of the family. Even the Knights of the Road knew this, they would come down the hill from the highway, tap on the door and stand with bowed head and hat in hand. They were not turned away. It was a vastly different time.

I only went in that front door a few times in my life, always on Christmas eve. My grandparents built a new home in 1954 up on the hill. A modern style home, yes, but we still used the back door except at Christmas .

Christmas 1949. Annie Shannon, my father and two of his boys just arrived at the old house. Family Photo.

1954, in what was our last Christmas in the old house in which the event that is the subject of this story occurred. We heaved the doors to the Buick open and ran to the door hoping to catch Santa in the act but as seemed to happen every year he had just left by the back door while we tumbled in the front. Mom and dad followed, arms full of presents, Cayce, my little brother, just three dragging mom by the hand squeaking in delight.

Grandma and grandpa met us at the door she in her print dress, sturdy shoes, old fashioned wire rim glasses and her apron, always with a hanky peeking from the pocket. She smelled sweetly of white shoulders and when you hugged her she would give you her very soft cheek to kiss. The formal and manly handshake from Big Jack as he uttered his, “The Blessed Boys,” with that big grin, his chest pushed out and his green suspenders like two vertical stripes holding his belly in. Uncle Jackie bringing up the rear, short, bald and bandy legged he sported a big grin, delighted to see his nephews. This ritual of greeting never changed as long as they lived, it didn’t matter if they had just seen you an hour earlier it was always the same.

In that last Christmas in the old house, the biggest most important thing for me was a brand new Lionel electric train. The little black engine pulling the cars and caboose in a stately manner around the Christmas tree. My grandfather got right down on the floor with me and we played with it until dinner was called. I could hardly step away. Eventually, full of turkey and homemade pie my brother Jerry and I fell asleep on the floor. Mom cuddled with little Cayce on the sofa until it was time to go home. The little train set stayed until dad could go back with the pickup to get it.

My dad visited his parents often. Sunday, which was a no work day would see him sitting at the green painted table with the checkered oilcloth cover, tacks along the edge to hold it in place. This was the kitchen of the old house where he had grown up. They would drink scalding hot coffee from the old enamel pot that sat in its habitual place on the stove. They’d be shooting the breeze, his parents and brother Jackie. They had nearly fifty years together so there was always something talk about.

After one of these visits, sometime after new years he came home and over lunch laughingly told us that after Christmas my grandfather had gone to Bello’s store in San Luis Obispo and bought himself a train set. My grandmother thought it was pretty silly for a grown man to do that. It was a silly little topic at her bridge club. Mrs. Brisco, Mrs Conrow and Mrs Jatta agreed and commented that it was just like Jack to do something like that. They said he was still just a boy at heart. They spoke the truth.

The little train lived in their living room for a bit but slowly began to grow. He added track, some trees and two small buildings. One was a church that looked similar to the one my grandmother attended. Perhaps this was an attempt to head of the inevitable grandmother “Stink eye” that was sure to come when the railroad would need to be moved for company.

By mid-January he made a trip north to buy more track, though he was already encroaching on the dining area. The next day grandma went to town to do her shopping and run some errands and when she came home he came out to help her unload the food she bought at Bennett’s grocery while she went in the house to take off her hat and gloves and put on her apron to ready supper. From outside Jack heard her raise her voice to the high heavens and quickly the sound of her voice saying, “Jack, you get in the house right this minute.”

He had finally reached her limit for what he had done with his new track was cut three holes in the walls so the train could pass through into the bedroom, make a left turn through another tunnel into the office and then turn again through the wall back from where it came. Enough was enough. She evicted him and his railroad.

Jack and Annie Shannon circa 1950. Shannon Family Photo.

Jach was a clever man so as he packed up the rolling stock and his village, carefully placing each piece in some of his old milk crates stamped with the family’s label, Hillcrest Farms Dairy. As was his nature, being a man who does nothing half way, he began to ruminate on how he could continue his railroading…….

Part two is coming on Saturday the 8th of June.

Michael Shannon is a born and raised Californian and still lives in God’s country.

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