THE TWELVE HOUR TOUR

Chapter 22, Out of State

Michael Shannon

Grandpa called her the “Oil Hog.”*

This story is not really about a trip to Montana in 1938 to drill an oil well as much as it is about certain women in my family who always had their sights set on the far distance. Dreamers and carriers of hope in baskets. They saw something off in the far distance that drew them outward and forward.

In the mid-thirties Signal Oil Company was developing along sevral lines of business in an attempt to survive. Like many companies in the boom and bust business, whichever it might have been, growth was the only bastion of continuance.

By 1938 Signal’s primary business was refining. In order to refine they needed crude oil which they cracked and distilled and supplied to the filling stations that Sam Mosher had acquired up and down the west coast. The key to it all was oil and that meant control of enough wells to adequately supply the refineries. Drilling the first company well at Hydrocarben Gulch in Goleta had been a success, a near thing but still a series of good producing wells. Carefully buying up likely leases or abandoned wells in Long Beach, Santa Fe Springs and in the Elk Hills around Maricopa he had developed a sort of insurance that allowed the company to assure a steady supply of crude.

Mosher and his team were one of the first west coast outfits to pursue serious vertical integration. This is a strategic business model where a company gains control over multiple stages of its supply chain such as production, distribution, and retail, rather than relying on external suppliers. By acquiring or developing these stages, firms improve efficiency, reduce costs, enhance quality control, and insure supply chain stability.

To that end Signal was casting a net of geologists far and wide across the US looking for possibilities. For a primarily west coast operation they saw that expanding their map could be a positive move. Mosher acquired a number of wells in west Texas. In May of 1923, diggers struck oil in Big Lake, and it became the first commercial oil site in the Permian Basin. The discovery of oil in the region propelled Big Lake into a thriving oil production center, and the area still has a rich history connected to the industry to this day.

The first big Wildcat in Big Lake was the so-called Santa Ria No. 1, which was named for the Patron Saint of the Impossible, was the first commercial oil site in Big Lake. Wildcatters who live by boom and bust have a perfectly tuned sense of Irony as can be seen by tales of life along the cutting edge of discovery. Lucky Seven, Devils Hole and Six Shooter being examples of Oil Patch whimsey.

In September of 1938 Bruce and Eileen were living on Short Street in Arroyo Grande while Bruce tended wells from Maricopa to Casmalia where he first started in 1919. He was on the road all the time flying back and forth on a moments notice when word came down from headquarters in Long Beach that he was being sent to Montana. He was to take over drilling operations on a new well outside of Billings Montana. Just like all the other moves they packed up, rented out the house and hit the road. Bruce Eileen, Bob who had just moved home from his sister Mariel and her husband Ray Long’s ranch where he had gone to live and attend Sierra high school, the idea being that he would not be moved around as much as the girls had. Patsy who had just turned six was along for the ride too and don’t forget, Mister Beans the Boston Terrier who sat on grandma’s lap for the trip.

Robert (B0b) Hall up on Brownie with Bobby dog, Miramonte, California 1937

It was a long lonely trip by car. What was once referred to as the wild west was stil lightly populated and the road to Montana was long, lonely and mostly unpaved. In fact there was no direct route between central California and Billings.

Flying was also out of the question. There was no direct air service from California. Only Northwest Airlines flew to Billings and that was from Seattle to Chicago with a stop in Billings. The plane itself was a Lockheed Electra model 10 which had famously carried the aviatrix Amelia Earhart to her doom the year before, not an uncommon thing at the dawn of commercial air before radar and GPS.

In any case paying for a flight to the middle of nowhere wouldn’t have been the company way so drive it was. There were only two ways to go, north to Portland along highway 5 then east up the Columbia River. Turn at Umatilla, go north again to Holmes Washington and then head east again towards Spokane.

On the trip up the Columbia they stopped and wondered at the brand new Bonneville dam. At a cost of 88.4 million dollars it was, at the time the most expensive federal project ever built. Boulder dam on the Colorado completed just two years before came in at 50 million and in 1940 the Missouri River’s Fort Peck topped out at nearly a hundred million dollars. All three were paid for by the Public Works Administration and built under the auspices of the Army Corps of Engineers. Designed for flood control and generation of electricity they served some of the more remote parts of the country, they were also designed to put Americans back to work during the depression. An added bonus that these huge projects provided was a skilled engineering workforce leading up to the second world war.

Crossing the panhandle of Idaho they hit Butte Montana once known as the Richest Hill on Earth. In 1938 it was just a ghost of what it once was. Much of it abandoned and boarded up but its fame and decadence was well known western history.

Butte was first settled in 1864 as a mining camp. Right along on the Continental Divide, Butte exploded the late 19th century with the discovery of Gold, Silver and Copper. I was Montana’s first major industrial city. In its heyday between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it was one of the largest copper boom towns in the American West. Employment opportunities in the mines attracted surges of European and Asian immigrants, particularly the Irish. Today Butte still has the largest population of Irish Americans per capita of any U.S. city.

Butte is in the wonderfully named Silver Bow county. Famous for as being the site of various historical events involving the mining industry and active labor unions and socialist politics, the most famous of which was the labor riot of 1914. Despite the dominance of the Anaconda Copper Mining Company, Butte was never a company town. Other major events in the city’s history include the 1917 Speculator Mine disaster, the largest hard rock mining disaster in world history.

Every miner’s family knew what the sound of the screeching steam whistle meant when it was yanked hard and tied down. The high pitched scream pierced the Butte valley for those to know that men had died under the rock.

The Granite Mountain/Speculator Mine disaster of June 8, 1917, occurred as a result of a fire in a copper mine, and was the most deadly event in underground hard rock mining in United States history. Most men died of suffocation underground as the fire consumed their oxygen. A total of 168 miners were killed. Some left notes written while they waited in hopes of rescue. A few managed to barricade themselves behind bulkheads in the mine and were found after as long as 55 hours. Some of the notes written by the miners while they waited to be rescued can be viewed at the site of the memorial to those that died.

“It takes my heart to be taken from you so suddenly and unexpectedly, but think not of me, for if death comes, it will be in a sleep without suffering …” – Manus Dugan to his wife and mother in a note written as he waited behind a bulkhead to die.

Disaster was always on the menu in those old mining towns but the wages were good and a man new to the country with little education was willing to roll the dice to feed his family.

The Dumas House circa 1905. Montana historical photo

In a walk around the old town in September of 1938 took them down to the rows of whiskey bars and saloons known as the Line or “The Copper Block”, centered on Mercury Street, where the elegant bordellos included the famous Dumas House. Behind the brothel was the equally famous Venus Alley where women plied their trade in small cubicles called “cribs.” The red-light district brought miners and other men from all over the region and remained open in 1938. Pretty scandalous but Bruce and Eileen hardly turned a hair as nearly twenty years in and around the oil patch left few surprises when it came to what people had and did do to survive

The Spectator Mine. Montana Historical photo.

They stayed the night then saddled up and drove on down to Bozeman. Bozeman in 1938 was an entirely different town that the rolicking, rowdy ex-boomtown of Butte. In July 1806, William Clark, of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, took a side trip, visiting the Gallatin Valley as he traveled east from Three Forks, Montana, following the Gallatin River. Journal entries from Clark’s party briefly describe the future Bozeman as the “Valley of the Flowers,” which came from the southwest Montana native tribe’s apt description of the pristine Gallatin Valley land. It was known as “The Garden Spot of Montana.”

When the Halls passed through the valley it was still a major wheat producer and one of the largest pea producers canning and shipping peas all over the country. For Bruce and Eileen and their kids the attraction was certainly not the peas. Hating peas, boiled, baked or steamed is major point of pride in our family. ***

Bozeman had been the gateway to Butte for the Boomers heading up to the richest hill to strike it rich. It was a much more hospitable place and in the late 30’s and was already home to the States University. The Northern Pacific railroad had a division point there and the fertile lands in the Gallatin Valley were host to large cattle and wheat ranching operations. 120 miles east, Billings was going to be a different experience altogether.


Before motels there were auto courts One or two room cabins for rent by the night. Bozeman Montana 1938

The next morning they headed east towards Billings. The Nash’s hood was thrown open and she got a couple quarts of oil for breakfast and leaving behind her calling card on the motor courts parking lot they motored out leaving a plume of fragrant oil drifting on the cool mornings air. Broadview Dome #1 waited, so did a vastly different life than the one they had lived in California.

1700 miles of every kind of road imaginable from dirt and mud holes, gravel much of it unpaved and now it was just 120 miles to Billings and the new well.


Traveling Eest towards Billings, Montana 1938. Robert Hall Photo

Next it’s on to Billings and Back to Work,

Chapter 23 of the Twelve Hour Tour.

*In 1932, when the Oil Hog was new, Nash prices varied by series, with the Series 980 4-Door Town Sedan having a base price around $895. Six years old, ancient for a 1930’s car she leaked motor oil like a sieve and needed pretty careful attention. It was quite a trip to take through lonesome and wild country but that was Bruce and Eileens way. It seems like adventure always called to them.

*Most of the photos in this chapter are from two albums of photos taken by Bruce and his son Bob and compiled by my grandmother. The beautifully annotated photos are described in by mother’s fine hand with white India ink on black felted album paper. It is a cherished family keepsake as you might well imagine.

**Many Many of the snapshots in the albums are the exact same ones that a traveler may well take today.

***The family Pea History. https://atthetable2015.com/2025/10/16/the-great-pea-war-2/

Michael Shannon lives in California and is a grandson of Bruce and Eileen Hall.

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My Fathers Big Fish

by Michael Shannon.

The River of the Kings was my father’s place of choice. Fast running, deep, frigid and isolated and in a most remote part of the formidable Sierra Nevada. The Snowy Mountains* are part of the American Cordillera, an almost continuous chain of mountain ranges that forms the western “backbone” of the Americas. He and his brother began going there in the late 1920’s. Still in high school, my uncle just 18 and my dad 16, both from a little town in coastal California over 200 miles from the Kings River canyon.

Río de los Santos Reyes headwaters originate along the Sierra Crest in and around Kings Canyon National Park and form Kings Canyon, one of the deepest river gorges in North America. The river was named by Gabriel Moraga, the commander of a Spanish military expedition in 1806, but it was not until California became a U.S. state in 1850 that many Europeans arrived and settled along the Kings River, driving out the original inhabitants the Yokuts. The Middle Fork flows for only 37 miles through some of the Sierras most difficult-to-access backcountry, including Simpson Meadow and Tehipite Valley.

Tehipite Dome

Two hundred miles of mostly dirt roads which they had to navigate into the mountains in my grandfathers old 1918 Model T Ford. Arroyo Grande to Paso de Robles, east on hwy. 41 through the central valley to Lemoore, Hanford and Visalia turning at Woodlake and starting the climb through the foothills and up to Badger and Pinehurst to the road junction east of Dunlap then following the winding one lane dirt track up to Grants Grove, past Hume Station and then down to the turnout at Yucca Point.

The road was so narrow that on sharp turns there would be a hand painted wooden sign tacked to a tree cautioning the driver to “Sound Klaxon” on all the blind corners. If you heard another horn, the downhill driver had to back uphill until there was enough room to pass. Dad said the driver going uphill would have a great view straight downhill to the canyons below.

The Ford had been outfitted with everything a wilderness fisherman might need. Two sleeping bags, a couple canteens though in those days you could still drink from the river, no Giardia. Couple loaves of homemade bread baked by grandmother, jam and a jar of peanut butter, small can of lard for frying fish, salt and pepper, skillet and a knife to serve all the purposes a knife might. Only one problem. In a hurry to get away the sleeping bags were forgotten on the back porch. Neither of them noticed until they got to Grant Grove where they had to dig into the back to get a water bag to hang on the radiator.

This created a little bitty problem for the nights in September in the high sierra can be a wee bit cold or very hot, you never know. You want to count on both. The went in a talked to the man in the little store there but they didn’t sell sleeping bags or blankets. He did suggest they might talk to the owner of the pack station just up the road he might be able to help. Sure as shootin’ he could and did. See, he had a stack of horse blankets which he was willing to part with for say, five bucks each, used of course. Knowing the were in desperate straits the two boys agreed. They riffle through the pile trying to find the least objectionable. They all reeked of horse sweat, some were raggedy and many sported holes where they sat up on the horses’s withers. Picking out two they forked over a double sawbuck and carried the loot back to the care uttering what passed for polite boy’s curses the whole way. The old cowpoke reckoned it was a mighty good day.

The two boys wore long sleeved shirts because of the mosquitos and yellow jackets, one pair of trousers and believe it or not high top canvas sneakers with rubber soles. No hiking boots, too much to carry, but they did have a coil of rope in case they needed to cross in high water coming down from the south fork. In some years the water was still dangerously swift and deep even on Labor Day. The river bed was entirely rocks and scattered boulders. Fording the river was always and adventure. The current was swift and everything slippery and in the twenties there was nothing or no one to help you if you were hurt. The trail back up to yucca point was very steep and unimproved and the only way out was walking. It would have been a walk out for the uninjured and then seek help and the return trip with someone else and again the return by stretcher up a treacherous steep trail crossed by tree roots, half embedded stone, mud and all in the early September heat and don’t forget the deer fly trying to drink from your sweat and tears. You could soak your handkerchief in water from your canteen and tie it over your face above the eyes, it was the only way to keep them out. The view through the wet bandana was minimal so you’d better step carefully. The first rule was to be very careful.

At the bottom of the trail they tried fording the river but it was too swift and deep though it was barely more than knee deep. They figured if they could get the rope across the be able to ford. My dad was an excellent swimmer and body surfer. He’d spent a great deal of his youth swimming in the ocean and had the confidence to give it a try. He said he couldn’t really swim at the ford but determined that he could get across at the deep hole just upstream. The best thing was to swim the center where the current was a little slower so he stripped off all his clothes, tied the rope around his waist and waded in.

Left to Right, Jackie, Jack Shannon and George in 1928, Family Photo.

The water was cold, cold, cold, so cold that he could hardly breath. He was really glad to crawl out at the other side. The sand bar he came out on had three sycamore trees just a little set back form the shore so he walked to the trees and tied the rope around the closest one. His brother tied off the other on the opposite shore. Now they could use the rope to steady themselves as they crossed and recrossed to move their packs across.

After spending the night on the sand bar where the middle and south fork came together they cooked up a little breakfast then hit the trail. That is if you could call it a trail. Even today it is marked as unmaintained by the forest service and in those days it was nothing more than a narrow single wide path scratched out by miners during the gold rush.

The middle fork drops hundreds of feet per mile bounding and crashing around boulders where it forms eddys and small falls around the great deep pools. To get upstream the original trail blazers had cut a very steep trail up the side of the mountain ridges that formed the canyon. They had to climb this switchback trail for several hundred feet to get to a spot where the trail leveled out. It was just impossible to go upstream along the river below because the canyon walls ended where the river ran. The only way was to climb up to a little bench in the mountainside where they had cut the original trail. Unmaintained no wider than a couple feet you could look down a near vertical slope to the river below and straight up at your shoulder. Boulders clung to the slopes by some mysterious force for there wasn’t any visible means that kept them from flinging themselves headlong into the water below.

About two miles along they found a rusted, crumbling piece of one inch twisted steel cable. Puzzled by the find they at first couldn’t figure out why it should be in a place where it made no sense. Who dragged it up there and why? You couldn’t get much farther from anywhere than this place. Standing together they looked around but they couldn’t find any reason for it until they noticed, way across the river on the opposite cliff side the mouth of a small tunnel that could only be a mine entrance. They could see some rotted old timbers in the entrance and a few rusted tinned cans scattered about. The cable had to be the remnants of a pulley system that head been built to ferry supplies to the men who worked the mine and to haul whatever ore they found back across. How in the world did those old forty-niners get up there while prospecting and once they found some color how did they ever get the cable across? With only a small bench of mine tailings at the mouth of the tunnel they must have actually lived in the mine itself. Just visible down slope of the mine they could see a small rectangular iron bucket with a pulley still attached which explained how they got across.

Dad said they tried to imagine how a couple prospectors in the 1850’s hauled all the gear up there. Did they come by horseback and a packtrain? Did they walk in with a donkey? There is no forage nearby, little vegetation other than stunted trees clinging to the mountainside and where would the animals go when they were working the mine?

Those old prospectors explored every inch of the Sierra, getting into places where you would think no one could. There are abandoned mines all over the mountains. No one knows who found them or worked them and the only clue is a dark tunnel and scattered and broken old shovels, picks and empty cans of tomatoes.*

Finally at the end of a hot and dusty hike the train crossed a monumental rock slide where there was no walking but a semi-stumbling, one hand for yourself crossing to a sandbar along the river. The trail had caught up with the Kings where Lost Canyon creek came tumbling down from the nearly twelve thousand foot height of the Sentinel.

La Cuidadela, the Sentinel peak.

They told fish tails about the trips, how the fishing was fantastic. There were no planted trout up on the Kings, and there are none today. A man had to be full of tricks to land one of the veteran, wily Rainbow and Brown trout. Always fish going upstream, never let your shadow fall on the water, when the sun is high enough retire to the shade and take a nap because the fish cannot see whats on the surface and won’t rise. Don’t fish when it’s windy which it normally is in the afternoon. Find a deep hole which is partially shaded and bordered by an eddy which delivers insects right to the fish and delicately lay a dry fly on its edge. Make your pole dance the fly in an irregular pattern just as if it was real and you might be rewarded.

Dad even had a favorite place. High on a rock where the river was scrunched between a nest of huge boulders that had tumbled down the canyon walls you cold climb on top of the largest and flip your Grey Hackle right under and overhang formed by a split boulder where, he always believed, the King of Brown trout lived. Deep down in the dark cavern of still water he would only rise to feed under the most perfect of conditions.

Since their first trip in 1929, they returned again and again over the decades. They began to take me along when I was thirteen. What we carried was about the same, peanut butter, Webers bread, some butter and a small bag of flour and the cheapest frying pan possible because it didn’t weigh much. My uncle Jackie always took his old sleeping bag. I’m sure it was the first one he ever owned.*** No one in the family though that fancy gear like waders and basket creels were necessary. They considered that kind of stuff an affectation. The were there to fish and they knew the fish didn’t care. A bed of willow leaves in a flour sack worked well enough for the fish who would be dinner and your Levis had pockets anyway.

Lying on top of your bag at night, it was too hot to get inside, my dad and uncle talked quietly about nothing important and I listened. We watched the heavens for our American satellite Explorer I as it passed overhead. When finally it moved quickly across the sky and didn’t twinkle you could wonder at it all. In a time where space was all new to us, I felt safe in the knowledge that our country was the best place. I was thirteen then and all seemed possible. A boy and his father sleeping in the remote wilderness of the King’s River. No sound but the melodious chortling of the river and the owl.

*The Sierra Nevada.

**Tomato processing began in 1847, when Harrison Woodhull Crosby, the chief gardener at Lafayette College developed a crude method of canning tomatoes. Prior to 1890 all tomato canning was done by hand. It was said that you could follow the empty cans from Kansas to California.

***We still have it.

Michael Shannon writes of his family so his children will know from whom they came.

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